DS - Prototype LR/DR
Components:
- 5x 28mm Ball Pommel Mk.II (304 Stainless Steel)
- 1x Standard Grip Mk.III (Urethane Resin + Brass Insert)
- 1x LR-length Ricasso Block Mk.I (Urethane + 304 Stainless Steel)
- 1x LR Knucklebow Mk.I (304 Stainless Steel)
- 4x Short Grip Mk.I (Urethane Resin + Brass Insert)
- 4x DR-length Ricasso Block Mk.I (Urethane + 304 Stainless Steel)
- 4x DR Knucklebow Mk.I (304 Stainless Steel)
- 5x Bilobated Shell Guard Mk.I (304 Stainless Steel)
- DragonsScale - BLACKx1
- SPIRAL- NAVYx1
- SPIRAL - BLACKx1
- SPIRAL - GREYx1
- SPIRAL - BURGUNDYx1
! IMPORTANT NOTE !
There is wide variability in production Epee blades. About 1/3 of the blades we have tested have a square tang which is NOT the standard 6x6mm cross section. Our recommendation is to use a mill file to remove any taper or excess material. Blades are disposable commodities - fitting the blade to the hardware is more feasible than fitting the hardware to the blade. This is a DIY hilt set, not a finished sword
Finished and Assembled in Ohio, USA by Youngstown Historical Fencing.
Parts and Materials Sourcing Transparency:- Stainless steel tube and ball sourced internationally
- 304 Stainless material sourced from US/Global suppliers, Laser Cutting by SendCutSend in the USA, processed and finished in Ohio, USA
- Urethane resin produced by Smooth-On in the USA - sculpted, cast, and finish in Ohio, USA
- Brass threaded insert Made in the USA.
Note: Urethane resin is hard, tough and impact resistant (we have literally hit them with hammers to test this!) but like all plastics, can soften slightly and deform if left in a very hot environment for long periods of time. We highly recommend that you decompress (i.e. loosen the pommel and grip sections slightly) your assembled sword if you plan on leaving it in a hot car all day, and let it cool before tightening it back up - this will preserve the integrity of the components long term.